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The history of restaurants and what they tell us about the culture of a place is absolutely the most interesting aspect, to me, of food writing. So I'm going to dedicate this bi-weekly column to the restaurants that built Los Angeles, whether they carried the entertainment industry or gave light to our subcultures. I've got a thing going with the classic television show Columbo that I'll start publishing shortly.
To kick off, here is a collection of articles that works as a great overview by Hadley Meares, tireless L.A. culture reporter and dear friend.
Here's a more recent article about the Formosa that includes the most recent ownership and has some real nice photos.
If you'd like to visit some extant restaurants with long histories, here's a list from Eater LA.
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See the map of all How to Eat L.A. picks here.